Lactose-intolerant, vegetarian Celiacs beware…

August 9, 2009.
Barley = Death (almost). Our extremely-hospitable homestay chef (Cherry-man’s niece), made us delicious Barley-potato soup, along with some slightly stale wheat bread and of course Kefir. This would be solid meal unfortunately caused me a long night of suffering as I am both lactose-intolerant and Barley is my body’s worst enemy. I must say, this is perhaps one of the most frustrating elements of Tajikistan (for me). Everyone is so friendly, welcoming and generous, and I feel rude not to accept what has been so lovingly prepared. Well, after a fit-full night where I thought I was going to die in this village 6 hours from the closest hospital (thank you Allison for putting up with my groaning + shaking…Liz, sound familiar?), we woke up to a scrumptious smelling breakfast of…streaming hot barley and fresh milk. I spent the rest of the day lying under a shady tree on an almost-river-island, learning some Tajik, but mostly reading The Time Traveler’s Wife (an excellent book, which keeps me up late and night and a book I can’t wait to continue reading in the morning when I wake up).
Unfortunately, we had to get back to Khorog on Sunday, to be at work on Monday. After my weakened body somehow carried my pack to the first village, a fine young gentlemen who know I was ill, carried my pack all the way down to the bridge. There the driver was already waiting for us. The drive back to Khorog was pleasant, albeit full of detours, pit stops and tea time. The driver was constantly distracted with visiting friends and family, bumming smokes off his friends and filling up the benzene in random houses. We were graciously invited in for tea at his sisters house where we had a tasty potato-onion dish (which supposedly are like Allison’s dad’s homefries), tea, apricot jam + cyanide pits fresh off the fire and of course…Kefir. I didn’t touch mine, but Allison took one for the team. I really need to start carrying those Lactose pills. Feel free to send me some gluten-free, lactose-free, vegetarian recipes ☺. Geez, my stomach makes globetrotting a true challenge.


2 Responses to Lactose-intolerant, vegetarian Celiacs beware…

  1. Liz! says:

    It sounds SO familiar! Cold sweats, shaking, sleepless and feverish… I hope there was soothing music on an iPod to help. Wish I was there with you babe!

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